The continued article of “Beaches in Phu Quoc Part 1”
Bai Ganh Dau
Bai Ganh Dau (Ganh Dau Beach) on the northwest corner is a wonderful surprise. The clear turquoise waters sparkle like a jewel as it gently laps onto blonde sand. We spent an hour on a sun-lounger underneath a palm tree without seeing another visitor. There are a couple of seafood restaurants where you can quench your thirst or appetite. This is a fantastic under-the-radar spot.
Prepare your backside for a bumpy ride. Head east for a fun, pretty 19-kilometre journey through the jungle on dirt track.
Bai Rach Vem
Fourteen kilometres in, it’s possible to stop at Bai Rach Vem which has a fishing village, a shipbuilding yard and rubbish-strewn white sand beach. Look for the small sign “Rach Vem” and turn left. We didn’t get a great feeling here and didn’t linger.
Eventually the dirt road ends and you’ll meet a nicely paved arterial road that runs north-south down the centre. You have a few options from this junction.
If time allows, you can take a side trip to the northeast corner to Bai Thom. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to make it but we spoke to a few people who did. The consensus was that the beach was small and mediocre but you could cross a land bridge to tiny Hon Mot island for a look.
Bai Rach Tram
Venturing further, from Bai Thom travel another 12 kilometres west along dirt track to reach remote Bai Rach Tram (Rach Tram beach). And while it may be tempting to continue south from Bai Thom along the east coast, this route is very challenging and only for experienced riders. Otherwise, head back to the junction in the centre.
To head back to Duong Dong, it’s an easy paved journey south on Nguyen Trung Truc, or go west, passing pepper and bee farms to join Cua Can Road.
There are less notable beaches in the skinny southern tail of the island but you’ll still want to give yourself the whole day. From Duong Dong, take a road leading southeast to Ham Ninh, perhaps stopping for a dip at Suoi Tranh stream along the way (only flowing May to November). At Rach Ham town (which is a great place to eat giant crabs) turn left/head north for seven kilometres to Kiki Coconut Homestay on Cay Sao. The road will give you a taste of what Phu Quoc was like 10 years ago.
You’ll be rewarded with an isolated slice of coast. It’s easy enough to park the bike and follow footpaths to the water. The sand has natural debris but is deserted and pristine. For a meticulously clean patch of sand, Kiki Coconut Homestay is a tranquil breezy place to have a drink, enjoy a splash in the ocean and relax. Their palm-lined beach also has a view of the islands to the east.
Bai Sao Beach
Travel back south and take the sweet, smooth Highway 46 leading straight down the centre to An Thoi at the tip. Along this way is the road to Bai Sao beach. With photogenic white sand and turquoise water, Bai Sao is often considered Phu Quoc’s best beach – but as its popularity continues to increase, so does the rubbish.
For now it has just a handful of places to stay so Bai Sao is a popular spot for day-trippers. From the main road, it’s another two kilometres east on bumpy dirt track. Follow the signs to My Lan Resort to get to The Beach House, a chilled spot to relax and chow on some grub. My Lan itself is a chaotic hive of activity and Vietnamese style feasting. But there’s plenty of coast to escape the crowds and you should allot plenty of time to enjoy.
Hope you enjoy your vacation in Phu Quoc.
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